I've seen toned-down looks across many runways in New York this week. There's not much over-reaching, and many houses are avoiding risk. But the last thing I want to see right now-- in this climate, both atmospherically and economically-- is hopelessness. I'm looking for more look packed into streamlined shapes. And some designers have delivered.
My pick for the week thus far is Mara Hoffman, whose slim, body-covering shapes are popping with elaborate, head-to-toe detail.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, we have some houses simply going bare. I've seen many head-to-toe neutrals on slim shapes. This, too, is bold, though in a different way. It's relatively easy to look good in two or three colors, but one solid shade? A little harder. I think Derek Lam and Calvin Klein menswear, below, do it well.